
By: Rajbir Deswal & Chander Koumdi
Mired in mystery and miasma, coupled with a punch of the money minting miners’ exploits, the scenario shows up Glenwood Springs, in Colorado(US), appear as if it had for a long time been a favourite haunt of wanderers and holiday makers, even if they were interested in gambling and visiting prostitutes. But today the place is an economical stopover and a family friendly stepping stone for the almost unaffordable Aspen, the Queen of Snow Masses and known worldwide for its skiing sites. Aspen is about forty miles from here.

From Denver, we reached Glenwood Springs covering about one-sixty miles, through Vail, another ski destination, on the most ecofriendly highway called I-70. About ten miles short of the place we had an exciting experience of wading through a serpentine mountainous tract that boasts of being one of the tentacles of the Grand Canyon. The awe-inspiring sight of the slated, huge, red rock elements, betrays the derring-do disposition of a tourist given to wanderlust.

Until the middle of the 19th century, having been discovered a gold mine area, this town at the confluence of Roaring Fork and Colorado rivers was called Defiance. True to its calling, the gun slinging ruffians and desperadoes, overnight-turned-rich but weary miners, and solicitous madams made the pubs and bars throb and thrive. During those times Glenwood Springs attracted tourists who were mainly interested in the ‘Fairy Caves’ with grottos and labyrinthine ducts. It was only in 1885 that one of the founding father Issac Cooper’s wife gave the place its name as Glen Wood Springs.
At a time when the world’s largest hot spring pool was created by Walter Devereaux and his brothers, the place became dotted with nearly three-score such springs around 1860. Recreational activities now abound here attracting hunters, fishermen, mountain bikers, hikers, river rafters, skiers, snowmobilers besides those who want to have a taste of ‘yampah’ meaning ‘big medicine’ since the hot water springs harvested in once-upon-a-time natural accumulation of water, enriched with its mineral content was known to be having curative properties for diseases.
No wonder then that the famous Doc Holliday, a hunter, gambler and a dentist, stayed here for twelve long years to cure himself of tuberculosis. He died in a room in the then built Hot Springs hotel and Lodge at the age of 38. His grave at Pioneer Cemetery is a must-visit for tourists but it is still doubted whether Doc Holliday is actually buried there or ‘resting’ in the backyard of ‘one of the residents.’ Eeek….!
Standing on the rooftop of our Bed & Breakfast, Glenwood Motor Inn, and looking westward, we could have a breathtaking view of the Red Mountain, from over which went floating and almost kissing the peaks, the cottony clouds in all white. Rays of the setting Sun made the entire horizon turn into a collage of merging colours as against the red hill. On our East and at an elevation of about 1500 feet was the famous Cavern Adventure Park which could be approached on a cable car. One can find here the world’s First Alpine Coaster sliding through the downhill park with a speed of fifty miles an hour.
On the southern side lies the famous ski destination called Sunlight Mountain Resort offering snowshoeing, snowmobiling and ice skating. This place is a natural choice for “ski-stay-swim” tourists. The snowy peaks show up from here in varying hues. The average altitude of the mountains around Glenwood Springs reaches upto 13000 feet while the place itself is at 5700 feet elevation. The view from the park, of the Roaring Fork Valley, down below, is hilarious with a train system seen almost in miniature form. Here is also America’s world famous Amtrak railhead from where one can hop the historical downtown and reach the Hot Springs pool.
The evening stroll from our hotel to the Hot Springs took us just five minutes when we again felt tempted to take a dip in the hot waters. Rain or snow, the pool is full to capacity. The mineral rich water is captured at 122* F and toned down to 93 to 104 degrees. There are two pools with temperatures slightly different from one another and the bridge on the western side of the pool with a silhouette of the Red Mountain makes it a complete picture post card vista. Small Down Town area is close by with the City Hall and Police Station building on one side .Chains of many continental eateries, besides the typically American ones, are all around. We preferred Mexican berretta at Qudoba “to go” the first day of our three days stay. ‘To go’ means the stuff needs to be packed. ‘To stay’ means you are having it there itself.
Glenwood Springs attracts tourists all the year round and it can be reached by road as also rail. There are about 14 direct air services but three airports in Eagle County, Aspen and Grand Junction are 30, 40 and 90 miles from here. The accommodation is fairly cheap, almost one-fourth of what is there in the adjoining Ski destination and town of fashionable and rich people, Aspen. Yes you can stay with your pets also at some of the places. They have declared a twelve mile long stretch of the Roaring Fork River as Gold Medal River where those interested in fishing find the best of trout. Back home, one is sure to miss the time spent in this beautiful valley town—Glenwood Springs.
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